Guernsey Deep Dive

Welcome to the Deep Dive. In this episode we travel to 18th- and 19th-century St. Peter Port, Guernsey, to unearth a layered story about death, belonging and the uneasy boundary between remembrance and erasure. What begins as a practical solution to a public-health crisis — a new burying-ground for those who could not be accommodated in the overflowing parish vaults — quickly reveals itself to be a social instrument. The Cimetière des Étrangers, the Stranger's Cemetery, is less a neutral graveyard than a place marked for outsiders: soldiers, migrants, and the poor who were defined as "not of the parish" and therefore denied the protections of belonging.

We chart the cemetery’s life from its founding in 1780, laid out on steep, marginal ground beside Elizabeth College and the muddy Rouette Murtrière, through the arrival of Candy Cemetery — a grand, Parisian-inspired necropolis bought into as a guarantee of permanence for those who could pay. The contrast is stark: candy’s plots were sold "in perpetuity," an anxious purchase for families desperate to keep bones undisturbed; the Stranger’s Cemetery remained the default for those without means. That economic divide had consequences: in the 1830s, road building cleaved the Stranger’s ground in two and, over decades, the site was repeatedly desecrated and cleared to make way for infrastructure and development.

Along the way we meet individuals and institutions that illuminate the wider story — soldiers whose graves were later wrapped in regimental care, the towering Big Sam McDonald whose memorial alone survives, and the painstaking 1933 transcription by Spencer Carey Curtis that saved hundreds of names from oblivion. Yet the episode also traces ensemble acts of forgetting: the 1913 stone removals that scandalized a local newspaper, the unceremonious piling of headstones, the 1960s utility works that disturbed vaults, and the dramatic 1988 exhumation and mass reinterment of 2,650 bodies during construction.

Put together, these events form a narrative about how societies choose who deserves permanence and who can be moved aside for progress. The Stranger’s Cemetery became a palimpsest — a place written over and erased, its dead shuffled to suit urban needs and economic hierarchies. This episode is a guided excavation: part detective story, part social critique, and part elegy. We close by asking what remains when memory is conditional on status or money, and whether a single surviving memorial — the grave of Big Sam — can stand for the thousands whose resting places were deemed expendable.